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Stage 1 vs. Stage 2 vs. Stage 3: Which Tuning Stage Is Better?

Car tuning stages, including stage 1, stage 2, and stage 3, are essential for car owners who want to gain more power and performance. However, these terms are hugely misused since they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and tuner to tuner. 

These car tuning stages involve remapping the ECU software to identify which hardware needs to be tuned/replaced to gain extra power and torque from the engine. The three stages involve different modifications, with stage 1 being the most straightforward and stage 3 the most complex.

We will look at what is similar and different in stage 1 vs stage 2 vs stage 3. In the end, we will let you know what the best car tuning stage for your road vehicle is.

Stage 1 Tune

Stage 1 tune is the simplest remap since it only uses the manufacturer-specific parameters and stock components. You will not need OEM parts for stage 1 because this stage optimizes the vehicle’s parameters by unlocking the ECU to give the maximum power allowed by the carmaker using its stock components. It is the easiest modification since it can be quickly done via the car’s OBD port

You will not require any other engine modifications in stage 1, making it easier for car owners to do these mods themselves. Stage 1 also includes that you do not need any extra hardware, meaning that you can boost the vehicle’s performance using the same components that came with it. 

Examples of stage 1 tunes include:

  • Modifying the fuel pressure regulators.
  • Suspension upgrade.
  • Remapping the engine and engine timing.
  • Modifying the sports exhaust.
  • Air filters.
  • Induction kits.
  • Blow-off valves. 

These modifications are easy to fit because they are ‘bolt-on’, can be done independently, and need no other changes to other components. However, if you are going to do a stage 1 tune on various parts, it is recommended you do them together as a whole unit to get more extensive benefits. 

The three tuning stages involve different modifications, with stage 1 being the most straightforward and stage 3 the most complex.

Here are the procedures involved: 

Engine Remapping

This is the process of adding different software to the onboard computer to control engine performance to your liking. Remapping helps mechanics to control the engine timing, fuel delivery, ignition, and turbo-boost to get the most out of the engine’s power. 

The process is done via the OBD port in modern vehicles with the help of a laptop. Significant power increases can be done through engine remapping alone without any hardware changes. However, this depends on the manufacturer and how much power gain allowance the stock system allows. 

Air Intakes And Exhaust

Extra hardware mods to the air intake and exhaust are not mandatory for stage 1 but can be included for higher power gains. You will achieve more engine power by tuning the amount of air being fed into the engine. For stage 1 air intake mods, you will only need to add a high-performance air filter which will slightly increase performance.

Exhaust modifications will help increase the amount of air pumped through the engine by the turbo.

Stage 2 Tune

Stage 2 tune, unlike stage 1, requires hardware tunes/replacements to several components to get again in power and performance. Stage 2 tune provides higher power gains than stage 1 but is more complex since you will have to remap the engine, get additional components, and perform expert-level modifications on the parts. 

Getting a larger turbo or a hybrid turbo in your vehicle is an example of a stage 2 tune. In this case, you will essentially need to remap the engine to account for the turbo’s performance, upgrade the fueling system to accommodate the new turbo, and also strengthen the engine potential. You may do these procedures by yourself but need some special knowledge and expert equipment. 

Another example of a stage 2 tune is adding supercharger kits. In this case, you need to remap several components, including air intakes and exhausts, before you get the supercharger to work. Stage 2 mods such as these will require you to upgrade many other parts of your car and get extra add-ons to make them work. 

Here are some of the procedures involved: 

Engine Remapping

The same engine remap as in stage 1 is essential in stage 2 to ensure the engine readings are kept in accordance with the modifications and not stock parameters. Stage 2 remap is different from stage 1 since it is done while the new component is installed. 

Air Intake

An uprated air intake is beneficial if you do a stage 2 turbo upgrade. This will help account for the change in air intake to accommodate the vast turbo. You can modify the air intake to get colder air and larger air volumes or replace the part entirely with an upgraded one.


You will need increased gas flow to add power gains in stage 2 mods. Components such as the catalytic converter will need replacing to get a more efficient system with the new software changes. 


Intercoolers help get air cool from the turbos before it gets to the engine. Colder air will have more oxygen which translates to more power. Moreover, a cooler intercooler will help the engine work optimally at each stage since the temperatures won’t be high to affect any readings. 

Stage 2 Crackle Tune vs No Crackle Tune ~ Golf R

Stage 3 Tune

Stage 3 is the most complex of all three and is mostly reserved for motorsport, competition, and track-related situations. This stage involves modifications that are not recommended for road use since the vehicle will become uneconomical, fail an emissions test, have drivability issues, and even idle erratically. 

Stage 3 is an extension of stage 2 mods and focuses on getting all the power it can from the engine. This means that reliability will be low, and some components may get damaged. That is why stage 3 mods are best for competition cars that are rebuilt regularly to provide power gains for short periods. 

Here are some of the procedures you will need in stage 3:

Engine Remapping

This will be an extension of stage 2 remaps, with stage 3 taking it up a notch to maximize more power gain from multiple components. 

Fuel Injectors

Higher-capacity fuel injectors are essential in stage 3 and will be replaced by another similar but higher-performing engine. The better injectors will help provide more fuel since stage 3 mods require a lot of power. 

Fuel Pump

A better fuel pump ensures your cylinders are well fed with enough fuel to keep the temperatures low. 


The turbo is one of the most significant predictors of performance in turbo-charged engines. You will need a bigger turbo if you want the maximum power from your engine for the stage 3 tune. 

Bear in mind that the power gains from stage 3 and stages 1 and 2 are not uniform across different manufacturers. The increase in performance will vary across the board and depend on the parts you choose to upgrade and your vehicle’s make. 

Stage 1 Vs Stage 2 Vs Stage 3 Tune

Stage 1 Tune Vs. Stage 2 Tune

Stage 1 and 2 involve engine remapping that enables the engine to accommodate power gains without getting any false readings. The two stages also include fitting a higher-performance air filter to achieve more engine power by tuning the amount of air being fed into the engine.

As you can tell, stage 1 mods are much cheaper than stage 2. You can expect to spend around $200 to $500 on stage 1 modifications and $450 to $850 on stage 2 tunes. In addition to stage 1 mods, stage 2 includes induction kit mods to increase airflow. Moreover, a turbo-back can be added to improve airflow from the engine. 

Stage 1 TuneStage 2 Tune
Involves engine remappingInvolves engine remapping
Is safer since it uses manufacturer stock parametersIs less safe since mods overshoot manufacturers’ stock parameters
Cost less than stage 2Costs more than stage 1
Air intake mods are not mandatoryAir intake mods are mandatory
Exhaust mods are not mandatoryExhaust mods are mandatory
Requires little technical knowledgeRequires expert knowledge and access to expert tools
Comparing stage 1 and stage 2 tunes on a 2004 VW Jetta 1.9L TDI BEW engine code

Stage 2 Tune Vs. Stage 3 Tune

Stage 3 tune is an extension of stage 2 with more modifications and more power gain. Stage 2 is much safer for your vehicle, and you should not go for stage 3 mods unless you are considering track and competition-related improvements. 

Stage 3 combines stage 1 and stage 2 mods and adds add-ons and changes to maximize power gains from various components. Some components that can be upgraded in stage 3 to increase power include the intercooler, head gasket, turbo/supercharger, inlet valves, spark plugs, and exhaust manifold gasket. 

Stage 2 TuneStage 3 Tune
Involves engine remappingInvolves engine remapping
Suitable for road vehiclesSuitable for track and race vehicles
EconomicalLess economical
Efficient for long term useInefficient for long term use
Involves mods to the air intake and exhaust systemsInvolves mods to the air intake and exhaust systems
Does not include engine internals modificationsIncludes engine internals modifications like upgrading spark plugs, inlet valves, and head gasket
The sound difference between stage 2 & stage 3 for the MK7 Golf R

Final Thoughts

For the most gain in a regular road car, you will only need to perform Stage 2 modifications since they offer the most benefits with little downside. Stage 1 tunes, on the other hand, are the safest modifications you can make since they stick to the manufacturer’s standards. Only opt for Stage 3 tuning if you take your vehicle to the track.

What exactly is race tuning?

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  • Randy Worner

    My name is Randy Worner and I am the founder of I have been working on cars and trucks for almost 45 years. For the last 36 years I have taught Automotive / Diesel Technology classes for UTI, Snap On Tools, Chrysler, Pepboys, Lone Star College, NAPA and TBC Corporation. I also own a technical writing company known as Supreme Technical Services. It is ASE Gold Seal certified and Blue Seal Certified Author of auto/truck repair information.

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